Tuesday, May 20, 2025

May 20: a selection of words from the journals of cherished artists written on this day

 



May 20: Roman Catholic Feast Day of St. Bernardine of Siena, Confessor

The Republic of Siena was the country of St. Bernardine.  He was born at Masssa in 1380. Left an orphan at an early age, was educated by his pious aunt. As a member of the Confraternity of Our lady he served the sick in the hospital, “Nor did he desist when the Great Pestilence broke out in 1400.”  Prayer: “O Lord Jesus Christ, who granted to blessed Bernardine your confessor, a surprising love for your holy name, we beseech You, by his merits, an intercession, graciously pour upon us the spirit of your love, Amen.”

––from The Lives of the Saints

 

May 20

Black and white photograph of the floor of stage upon which a rock band is playing: a profusion of cables, various foot pedals, and mini-amplifiers.

“The foot pedals of resonant mastery: a dissonant monsoon, a cacaphonic cathedral, the sounds of a weeping heart.”

Patti Smith, A Book of Days

 

May 20

We have genuine friendship when it is based on a true human feeling, a feeling of closeness in which there is a sense of sharing and connectedness. I would call this type of friendship genuine because it is not affected by the increase of decrease of the individual’s wealth, status, or power.  The factor that sustains that friendship is whether of not the two people have mutual feelings of love and affection.

His Holiness the Dalai Lama, The Path to Tranquility: Daily Wisdom

 

May 20, 1888, Arles

There is an art of the future, and it is going to be so lovely and so young that even if we give up our youth to it, we must gain in serenity by it.  Perhaps it is very silly to write all this, but I feel it strongly; it seems to me that, like me, you have been suffering to see your life pass away like a puff of smoke; but if it grows again, and comes to life in what you make, nothing has been lost and the power to work is another youth.

Vincent Van Gogh, letter to his brother, Theo

 


May 20, 1926, Mexico City

Diego [Rivera] often said that he would write an article on photography.  He did, and Frances [Toor] published it in the current Mexican Folkways.  The title is “Edward Weston and Tina Modotti.”  Though personalities enter into it, it is really a lucid commentary on the art of today––and photography.  “Few of the modern plastic expressions that have given me pure and more intense joy than the masterpieces that are frequently produced in the work of Edward Weston, and I confess that I prefer the productions of this great artist  to the majority of contemporary significant painting.”  I should be pleased––and am––by such words.

Edward Weston, The Daybooks of Edward Weston, I. Mexico

 

May 20, 1927, Glendale, California

Is his [Stieglitz’] concern with subject matter?  Are not shells, bodies, clouds as much of today as machines? Does it make any difference what subject matter is used to express a feeling toward life!  And what about Stieglitz’ famed clouds?  Are they any more today than my subject matter?  He contradicts himself!  . . .

                  I recall the dream I had two years ago in Mexico––that Alfred Stieglitz was dead.  If dreams are symbolic –– this was an important dream to me–– –– ––

Edward Weston, The Daybooks of Edward Weston, II. California

 

May 20, 1954, Gardenville, New York

It was golden hour.  Almost complete solitude––(But two cars went by the whole time we were there). Watching the various birds––redwings, king-birds, swallows, and wild duck.  Once a flock of swallows came over the pond, playing the game they so love of circling in dizzy whirls, tagging each other ––

                  But most  delightful of all, it seemed, was to watch the sunstars dancing on the tiny wavelets formed by an intermittent wind––Sometimes the wind would die down completely and the water was almost smooth, with only a tiny star here and there––then far down the long pond we could se hundreds of glittering stars begin to dance, and then sweep us up in a bewildering wave on wave of glittering profusion, until the whole surface of the water in front of us was chopped by the brilliant tiny suns.  Almost as if they could be heard.

Charles Burchfield, The Sphinx, and the Milky Way: Selections from the Journals of

 

May 20, 1970, Ouro Preto

Mary Morse also burned all my letters to Lota [her lover recently who had recently taken her own life], which Lota had saved carefully so that I could use them––the Amazon trip, London, all sorts of little trips when I was away from her.  This is the second time this has happened to me–– my correspondence over years, with an old friend, been burned by someone else who had no business to do it.  The first time, the friend ––whom I have never met, even––wrote me, “You’ll be glad to hear––“ & I should never write anything indecent––like this!  Such nasty forma of unconscious jealousy, envy, etc., take. And now I have certainly lifted the lid off enough horrors for the morning.

Elizabeth  Bishop, letter to Ashley Brown, One Art, Letters

 

May 20, 1970, London

Beyond the window, the tops of the green trees, the center of London quiet as a garden.  It’s a house filled with people, and yet absolutely calm, the ingredient, of course, is money.

. . . It’s summer.  I’m working in a room the size of yours and dashing out like a swallow looking for straw to see people about my film. . . . Absolutely no sense here of that panic which electrifies the air in New York.  No rain.  Hotels filled.

James Salter, Letter to Robert Phelps

 

May 20, 1984, Iquitos

Shooting at the railroad station.  I had slept for only an hour because I was trying to get a long-distance call through.  It was already getting light outside when I lay down for a while.  Piercing sun all day.  I was dripping with sweat from the heat, as If I stood in a shower. At night, looking at rushes, some of the worst I have ever seen, but I also know that can be misleading.

Werner Herzog, Conquest of the Useless, Reflections from the Making of Fitzcarraldo

 

 

Friday, May 2, 2025

Notes on my "needing" a climbing guide book, Berner Allen~



 I bought so many books in March I declared a book-buying moratorium for April.  When a book 

arrived by mail on April 7, Aisha accused me of breach of contract.  Not so, I explained, I ordered it on 

March 31.

I made good on my self-imposed declaration for exactly three weeks.  On April 21 I was in Powells and there my moratorium ran counter to another self-imposed imperative: always buy a book when you (I) go into an independent bookstore.  The book that caught my eye was a small climbing guidebook, published by the Swiss Alpine Club, that is, the Schweizer Alpen-Club.  The text is in German.  Its title is Berner Alpen, Band (volume) IV.  The book is small: 4.5 inches by 6.5 inches.  It has a dust wrapper. The book is 276 pages long; however, is only a half inch thick.  This is because the paper is super thin, not unlike scritta paper, used traditionally to make Bibles. Also, the book features a red ribbon bookmarker, not unlike my grade school missal, St Joseph Daily Missal. Because of delicacy of the paper, and despite what the book’s size might suggest, this is not a book to toss into ones’ climbing pack.  Though, now that I think of it, what book is?  

Arguing for a comparison between a religious text and a climbing guidebook may or may not bebe a stretch (one that I will take up at a later time!).  But I do recall when Fred Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guides (three volumes) started appearing in the mid-1970s they were referred to as Beckey’s Bible.  And both the religious text and the climbing guidebook purport to lead the true believer to higher ground.


Confession: I’ve been known to vandalize my own guidebooks by slicing out pages and folding them up and into my pockets. After, I flatten them out, dirty, ink-smeared, and wrinkled, and reinsert them into the book. In any case, now I have seen climbers at crags reading route descriptions on their phones. 

The content of the book. It’s a climbing guide to the very well-known Bernese Alps, home to the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger. Like many climbers I have long been fascinated by the north face of the Eiger, first climbed by the team of Harrer, Heckmair, Kasparek, and Vörg in 1938. And scene of some of the most epic climbs and climbing accidents of the 20thcentury. Harrer’s story of the first ascent, The White Spider is one of the cornerstones of any alpine library.  Nonclimbers may know of the north face because it’s featured in Clint Eastwood’s The Eiger Sanction, based on the book by Trevanian.

I harbored mostly private plans to try the north face, but first wanted to check out the descent route by climbing it, in this book: Über die Südwestflanke und den Westgrat, first climbed in 1858—to give you a sense of its technical difficulties.  When we got to the Eigergletscher from which the climb started we were met with newly fallen knee-deep snow. We abandoned our plans and drove to the Dolomites, the “sunny side of the Alps,” where the weather was much better. 

I do not expect to return to the Eiger and, even if I were to, the north face is way beyond me now, and probably always was.  So why buy the book?

Bern Alpen features beautiful topographic drawings of the routes and clear black and white photos of them as well.  And as for the German, sometimes the topographic maps and photos are all you really need.  Besides even if it were written in English, grades of difficulty in foreign guidebooks always require a ‘translation” into the Yosemite Decimal System. Not to mention the problems of translating words on a page to the mountain under your feet. 

Guidebooks can have an intrinsic value beyond their obvious utilitarian purpose. One of my favorite guidebooks, actually one of my favorite books, is Rolando Garibottti and Dörte Pietron’s Patagonia Vertical, Chaltén Massif  I have no immediate plans to climb in Patagonia and probably, it’s safe to say that I never will, just as I am not likely to return to the Eiger. But these are gorgeous books, and I’m crow-like, on the lookout for shiny objects.